Holdings Alumni Association Alumni Lester Leutwiler Chief Illi... Finding Aid By A. Dickerson, C. Gimbel, E. Gutknecht, E. Harris, K. Higley, E. McAllister, L. Mullins, A. Nyasulu, K. Pursell, H. Shepherd, A. Smerz, A. Smith, F. Upchurch, Q. Xiong
Title: Lester Leutwiler Chief Illiniwek Headdresses, Costume, and Accessories, circa. 1924-1928, 1977
ID: 26/20/262
Primary Creator: Lester Leutwiler (1907-1993)
Extent: 4.2 cubic feet
Arrangement: Unarranged. Due to the nature of the materials, original order was not applicable nor is there any high-level intellectual order. Items were housed as sizing allowed.
Date Acquired: 06/17/2024. More info below under Accruals.
Subjects: Chief Illiniwek
This collection contains pieces from Lester Leutwiler's University of Illinois Chief costume, including the headdress and other accessories.
Lester Glen Leutwiler (1907-1993) was an American Boy Scout, member of the Order of the Arrow, and the first portrayer of the “Chief Illiniwek” mascot at the University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign. Leutwiler was born in Urbana on April 1, 1907, to Oscar Adolf Leutwiler, a mechanical engineering professor at the University, and Elise Verena (Kaeser) Leutwiler. He received a degree in mechanical engineering from the University in 1929 and worked at Pet, Inc., for the majority of his career. In 1930, Lester married Anna Louise Still (1907-1989), a dietician and fellow graduate of the University of Illinois. The couple had three children, Ann (Gasaway), Jean (Brandenburger), and Robert Leutwiler.
Leutwiler developed a deep interest in Indigenous culture through his time in the Boy Scouts of America and frequently performed dances inspired by Indigenous culture at Urbana High School. In August 1924, Leutwiler traveled to Denmark to participate in the Boy Scout Jamboree, where he learned a Sioux dance from scoutmaster Ralph Hubbard. The following year, Leutwiler constructed the first pieces of what was to become the Chief Illiniwek regalia at Hubbard’s Camp Ten-Sleep in Elbert, Colorado. Leutwiler would continue to construct various headdresses and regalia throughout his three years as Chief.
On October 30, 1926, Lester Leutwiler debuted the Chief Illiniwek mascot at the halftime performance of the Illinois-University of Pennsylvania football game. Though the character, which originated from an amalgamation of Indigenous culture, existed prior to 1926, Leutwiler was the first to physically embody it. Performing with the University Band under the direction of A. A. Harding and Ray Dvorak, Leutwiler exchanged his tomahawk for a peace pipe and linked arms with Illinois student George Adams, playing the role of William Penn using a costume loaned by the competing university. By November 11, Chief Illiniwek had been declared a regular feature of Illini games. Leutwiler would portray the Chief until the end of the 1928 football season.
Leutwiler continued his association with the Boy Scouts of America through his role as a scoutmaster and made appearances at the University to mark anniversaries of the Chief’s debut. Leutwiler passed away on February 10, 1993. Various students would continue to perform as the Chief until the mascot’s retirement in 2007.
Repository: The Sousa Archives and Center for American Music
Accruals: No further accruals are expected.
Access Restrictions: This series has no access restrictions, but the materials are not available to be displayed. Please contact an archivist for more information.
Acquisition Source: Barbara Leutwiler and Peter Brandenburger. Gift
Acquisition Method: The Sousa Archives and Center for American Music originally acquired the Lester Leutwiler materials through a gift from Lester Leutwiler's daughter-in-law Barbara Leutwiler, Boulder, CO., on June 17, 2024. An additional drum was added to the materials in November 2024, as a gift from Lester Leutwiler's nephew Peter Brandenburger, Portand, OR.
Appraisal Information: Any items related to Lester Leutwiler's activities as the Chief, interest in indigenous culture, and connections to the Chief throughout his lifetime were retained by the Sousa Archives. Items that could not be identified, or held no evidential, informational, or instrinsic value were deaccessioned.
Related Materials: Mark H Hindsley Papers, 12/9/20 Richard Brooks Papers and Chief Illiniwek Triptych Panel Mural, 26/20/204 Robert and John Bitzer Chief Illiniwek Papers and Regalia, 26/20/258 University Bands Collection, 12/9/93
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.13
Physical condition: Fair/Good
Material composition: Horse hair; golden eagle feathers; unidentified down feathers; felt; leather; glass beads; yarn; ribbons; felt; shoelace
Description: Headdress contains approximately 29 golden eagle feathers, attached to a taupe colored felt cap. Additional feather material is glued to the top of each eagle feather. Each feather’s shaft is wrapped in a tan fabric with unidentified down feathers and a leather loop bound with red thread, these are attached to the cap via a leather cord. A hidden string gives the feathers its headdress shape. Within the cap a horsehair wig is attached via string. Two thick braids on either side of the wig end with a red felt cuff. At the top of each braid is another red felt cuff bound in a green yarn. Inside the wig is a cloth cap to which the horsehair structure is bound. The horsehair is in fair condition and is exhibiting breakage and flaking. A beaded band of turquoise crosses the cap’s forehead with geometric patterns of red, yellow, black, and white beads. At each end of the beaded band red and yellow ribbons and shoelace fall in line with the horsehair braids (*note yellow ribbon on left side appears to have been removed prior to acquisition).
Measurement: 85 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.12
Physical condition: Poor/Fair
Material composition: Horse hair; felt; leather; fabric; wool; metal; golden eagle feathers; glass beads; thread; yarn; unidentified down feathers; stoat skin; deerskin
Description: Headdress contains two dark green lengths of fabric (one on each side of the wearer). Each length of dark green fabric contains 21 golden eagle feathers. Each feather has an unidentified yellow or orange feather and a lock of horsehair glued to the tip. Each feather’s shaft is bound with a down feather in red fabric and a leather loop, wrapped with green yarn. From here, each feather is attached via a leather cord that weaves between holes cut in the green length of fabric. The interior of each length of green fabric is a faded orange color, from which the leather cord attaching the feathers is much more visible. Each length is finished in tan bias strips along the edges and stitched with tan thread to a deerskin cap. The cap appears to be pre-made, and there are small metal eyelets, similar to a baseball cap. A faded green fabric is stitched to the outside of the cap. 24 feathers are decorated and attached to the cap as previously described. A beaded band of white beads crosses the forehead of the cap. The beaded band contains geometric patterns in red, green, black, and turquoise colored beads. The band is in poor condition and exhibits fading and fraying. A circle of orange felt covered with a metal disk resides at the temple area on either side of the cap. Hanging from the right side of the headdress near the face are leather straps, brown/orange fabric ribbons, and miscellaneous small down feathers. Hanging from the left side of the face are leather straps, orange and red ribbons, and the skin of a small ferret. Attached to the top of the cap is a thick cord/flexible shaft wrapped in various colored threads to make orange, black, and white patterns. A spotted and miscellaneous feathers complete the tip of this structure. The base of this structure is bound in red fabric and attached to the cap via leather strap. Several turkey feathers are also attached to the top of the cap forming a “crown." The turkey feathers are hidden by the much larger golden eagle feathers.
Measurements: 142 x 72 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.15
Physical condition: Good/Fair
Material composition: Wool felt; leather; fabric; sinew; beads; metal; thread
Description: Length of canvas-like green fabric with red fabric bias strip sewn with thick cord along one length of green fabric, each end of the green fabric has red fabric bias strips stitched on, with the lower end containing fringe. A thick strip of flat gray cord is stitched to the green length of fabric to create a "sash." Bead and fringe work is located on the top and middle portion of the "sash." Quiver is stitched to sash with thick cord and red bias strips. Quiver is made from green canvas-like fabric, constructed into a "tube." A red bias strip is sewn along one long edge with a thick cord and thick fringe. The top of the quiver has a red bias strip and a rectangular bead work patter with fringe on the bottom. The bottom of the quiver has a red bias strip and long fringe, much like the long edge. A beaded cross patter is also located towards the bottom of the quiver.
Measurement: 140 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.01
Physical condition: Fair
Material composition: Calfskin; glass beads; metal; feathers
Description: Size 12 moccasin Calfskin moccasin with lane stitch glass beading, made in the style of Sioux Native Americans. Beadwork design features a white and light blue background with red, black, and orange triangles. Calfskin thong wrapped around the outside of the back piece of the moccasin. Two beaded straps extending from the vamp (top piece). One strap has two metal tassels on the end, one of which has small dyed purple feathers on the end. Beads are missing at the toe. Acquired by Lester Leutwiler at the 1924 Boy Scout Jamboree in Denmark.
Measurement: 30 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.02
Physical condition: Fair
Material composition: Calfskin; glass beads; metal; feathers
Description: Size 12 moccasin featuring a calfskin moccasin with lane stitch glass beading, made in the style of Sioux Native Americans. Beadwork design features a white and light blue background with red, black, and orange triangles. Calfskin thong wrapped around the outside of the back piece of the moccasin. Two beaded straps extending from the vamp (top piece). One strap has two metal tassels on the end and the other strap has one metal tassel. Beads are missing at the toe. According to family history, it was acquired by Lester Leutwiler at the 1924 Boy Scout Jamboree in Denmark in a bartering agreement.
Measurement: 29.5 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.08
Physical condition: Fair
Material composition: Calfskin; glass beads; metal; feathers
Description: Calfskin leather strap with glass lane stitch beading, made in the style of Sioux Native Americans. One end of the strap is folded and stapled to be made shorter. The armband is fastened into a loop with calfskin cords. Beadwork design features a white background with red, black, and blue triangles and a red and blue border. There are metal tassels with dyed pink feathers on the end tied along the length of the cords. Based on the similarity of between the design of the armbands and the moccasins, it was likely acquired by Lester Leutwiler at the 1924 Boy Scout Jamboree in Denmark.
Measurement: 38 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.09
Physical condition: Fair
Material composition: Calfskin; glass beads; metal; feathers
Description: Calfskin leather strap with glass lane stitch beading, made in the style of Sioux Native Americans. One end of the strap is folded and stapled to be made shorter. The armband is fastened into a loop with calfskin cords. Beadwork design features a white background with red, black, and blue triangles and a red and blue border. There are metal tassels with dyed pink feathers on the end tied along the length of the cords. Based on the similarity of between the design of the armbands and the moccasins, it was likely acquired by Lester Leutwiler at the 1924 Boy Scout Jamboree in Denmark.
Measurement: 38 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.29
Physical condition: Fair
Material composition: Cotton; shell buttons
Description: Black cotton Army work shirt with left breast pocket. Half placket features four white shell buttons, with an additional smaller button on each sleeve cuff. Additional stitching on each shoulder and orange ribbon remants on the left shoulder (as worn) indicate possible attachment points for additional adornments. Fading and minor holes present throughout.
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.30
Physical condition: Fair
Material composition: Cotton; Bakelite beads; string
Description: Handmade, machine-sewn brown cotton shirt. Black grosgrain ribbon stitched to front of neckline to form ties at center split. The hem and sleeves have been cut at regular intervals and left unfinished to make fringe. String of multicolored Bakelite beads hand-stitched to the front of the shirt. Evidence of face powder remants at inside back neckline.
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.03
Physical condition: Fair
Material composition: Black twill weave cotton; red cotton; ivory twill tape; ivory cotton tape; yellow, white, green, black, red beads; green painted leather
Description: Rectangular pieces of black twill-weave cotton layered over each other and stitched in the middle to create a long, narrow loincloth. Bordered in red raw-edge cotton along all edges, except for several inches on either side of the fold line. An ivory cotton twill tape is placed just inside the red binding on the bottom half of the front side, while an ivory cotton tape serves the same purpose on the other side. The beadwork is lane-stitched and lies within the ivory twill tape portion, featuring a white bison with yellow beard on a green animal skin circle layered with a red cotton circle, both hand-appliqued to the black twill. Underneath the bison is a white arrow with a red stripe of beads. On each side of the circle is a white rectangle with a yellow border. Green squares are spaced equidistant within the rectangle. The presence of multiple stitch lines indicates amateur machine sewing.
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.06
Physical condition: Fair
Material composition: Green cotton sateen, ivory twill tape, denim, red cotton twill, hide, beads
Description: Machine-sewn chap leg made of red cotton. Green sateen binds the hem and lines the outermost portions of the chap. Ivory twill tape binds each edge of outseam. Denim faced waistband for reinforcement, likely to support a tie. Beading done on a strip of hide appliqued to the chap at an angle along the outseam, featuring representations of the American flag among other, likely Indigenous-inspired, designs.
Accession number:2024.26.20.262.07
Physical condition: Fair
Material composition: Green cotton sateen, ivory twill tape, denim, red cotton twill, hide, beads
Description: Green cotton sateen, ivory twill tape, denim, red cotton twill, hide, beads
Description: Machine-sewn chap leg made of red cotton with fading at the knees. Green sateen binds the hem and lines the outermost portions of the chap. Ivory twill tape binds each edge of outseam. Denim faced waistband for reinforcement, likely to support a tie. Beading done on a strip of hide appliqued to the chap at an angle along the outseam, featuring representations of the American flag among other, likely Indigenous-inspired, designs. Repairs were machine- and hand-sewn using red twill.
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.19
Physical condition: Fair
Material composition: Cloth; black thin muslin; felt; thread
Description: Black thin starched muslin wig, with minor face power and paint residue at the forehead. Material stretching beyond the cap on both sides is tied with black string to simulate hair being secured into two sections, and there is one braid on each side of the cap that spans from the side of the head to the bottom of the material. The two braids are secured at the bottom with a red felt fringe, which has been affixed by a band of green thread. The material is durable, yet lightweight to accommodate movement during performances.
Measurement: 66 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.17
Physical condition: Fair (Visible fraying and loose fibers)
Material composition: Horsehair; cloth; thread; yarn
Description: Black felt cap covered with horsehair, stitched using black thread. Horsehair extended past the cap is braided into two braids, one on each side of the cap. Near the middle of each braid is a band of dyed orange cloth, stitched together using orange thread. The orange cloth is slightly pilled. Strands of green yarn have been stitched to the orange cloth using orange thread. The bottom of each braid has been knotted to keep the braid secure.
Measurement: 81 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.16
Physical condition: Poor
Material composition: Horsehair; felt; yarn; leather; upholstery thread
Description: Black felt cap covered with horsehair, hand stitched using upholstery thread. Brown leather rectangle hand stitched to end of cap. Horsehair extending past the cap is braided into two braids. Large rectangle of red felt wrapped around the top of each braid and wrapped with green yarn. Smaller rectangle of red felt stitched near the bottom of each braid.
Measurement: 50 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.18
Physical condition: Fair
Material composition: Horsehair; green yarn; black sateen; upholstery thread; embroidery thread
Description: Black sateen cap covered in horsehair and stitched in using upholstery and embroidery thread. Braided into two sections on either side of the head and secured at the top with hand-stitched red felt, which is then wrapped in green yarn. Each braid end is wrapped in green yarn. Braids are roughly two feet long.
Measurement: 102 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.22
Physical condition: Good
Material composition: Western Red Cedar; steel nails
Description: Pipe shaft made from a narrow length of Western red cedar wood. On one end a thick cylindrical piece of Western red cedar with bark remnants is nailed to the shaft forming the bowl, while the other end features a small hole as the mouth piece. The top of the bowl and end of the pipe’s shaft exhibit black burn marks, suggesting the pipe is or was functional.
Measurement: 69.5 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.21
Physical condition: Fair
Material composition: Western red cedar; steel nails; rabbit feet; calfskin; beads; leather
Description: Pipe shaft is made from a narrow length of Western red cedar. The middle of the shaft is wrapped in a hand-stitched piece of calfskin. Two rabbit’s feet wrapped in linear beadwork, each with two small ears are positioned along the pipe stem, one on top of the calfskin piece and adjacent to several strands of beads and leather cord. The other rabbit ear is fastened with a narrow strand of calfskin near the mouth piece, which is whittled down slightly and features a small hole. The pipe bowl is made from a cylindrical piece of Western red cedar with bark remnants, secured to the stem with a leather strap and two nails. Calfskin fringe is hand-sewn around the bowl of the pipe. The top of the bowl and end of the pipe’s shaft exhibit black burn marks, suggesting the pipe is or was functional.
Measurement: 63.5 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.23
Physical condition: Fair
Material composition: Stone; wood; calfskin; horsehair; red felt; green yarn
Description: Wood handle with stone based covered in stitched calfskin. Long blonde horsehair tassel, attached with red felt and green yarn.
Measurement: 75 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.24
Physical condition: Fair
Material composition: Calfskin, red twill weave cotton, red felt, wood
Description: Braided leather handle with leather cord and felt in sections. Oval-shaped shaker with unknown contents (possibly beads) wrapped in string, red twill, and leather cord that forms the first part of the handle.
Measurement: 75 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.25
Physical condition: Good
Material composition: Brass; modern leather cord
Description: Three bells spaced equidistant apart on a leather cord, possibly to be tied around the ankle. Leather cord has been replaced.
Measurement: 44 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.25
Physical condition: Good
Material composition: Brass; modern leather cord
Description: Three bells spaced equidistant apart on a leather cord, possibly to be tied around the ankle. Leather cord has been replaced.
Measurement: 44 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.20
Physical condition: Fair
Material composition: Western red cedar; Steel; blue and yellow paint; string; feathers; sinew
Description: Narrow length of western red cedar split at one end to insert steel arrowhead, wrapped in sinew. Two feathers on the other end of the arrow, also attached with sinew, have removed at some point; partial shafts remain.
Measurement: 66 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.34
Physical condition: Good
Material composition: Beads; thread
Description: A rectangular looped beaded adornment with beaded fringes along the bottom. Beads are white, with orange, brown, and turquoise beads creating geometric patterns that mirror on each side. Orange and brown beads complete the ends of the beaded fringes. Held together with thin thread. Modern piece not made by Leutwiler.
Measurement: 12.5 x 4.5 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.35
Physical condition: Good
Material composition: Beads; thread
Description: Rectangular looped beaded adornment with beaded fringes along the bottom. Beads are white, with red-orange, green, and blue beads creating a geometric bird shape that mirrors on each side. Red and green beads complete the ends of the beaded fringes. Held together with thin thread. Modern piece not made by Leutwiler.
Measurement: 13 x 4.5 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.14
Physical condition: Fair
Material compostion: Turkey feather (two); unidentified feather; thread; felt; porcupine guard hair; white-tail deer tail hair; steel cord and bracketing; bone baseplate (roach spreader); leather cords; twine; cotton string; canvas
Description: The base of each large turkey feather is wrapped in red felt and matching red thread, settled into a bone socket and secured with leather cord and steel brackets wrapped in metal wire. There is one unidentified feather at the front of the roach. The roach is to be secured to the head with leather ties near the front and rear of the headpiece. The base of the porcupine hair is dyed red and partially covered by the deer tail hair. The underside of the roach is secured by twine, sewn into the porcupine and white-tail deer hair.
Measurement: 25.5 x 37 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.04
Physical condition: Good
Material composition: Metal container; powder
Description: A metallic face powder container with green and orange coloration. Floral imagery adorns the lid and the body. The item includes the text (in order from top of the lid to the bottom): "A Stein's Make-Up Product", "Stein's Face Powder", "Manufactured By The Stein Cosmetic CO. New York", "For The Stage - For the Boudoir", and "To Open Turn." A legend on the bottom of the container lists the shade ranges of the product; the tin is stamped with the number 15, indicating that it is a powder which replicates an "Indian" skin type. Patent number 1621487.
Measurement: 10.5 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.05
Physical condition: Fair
Material composition: Paper; beads; turkey feathers; metal
Description: Sewing supplies in a paper bag from the lace and button counter of the French department store Galeries Lafeyette. The bag blue and kraft bag contains the text “Aux Galeries Lafayette Paris,” “Maison Vendant Le Meilleur Marche De Tout,” “succursales | Nice | Lyon | Londres,” and “comptoir de lacet et bouton” on the front label. Inside the bag is loose white and blue beads, strings of white beads, partial turkey feathers, leather cord, needles, thread, a Minerva size 10 crochet hook used for beading, stylus, and paper stencil used for the central figure of the loincloth.
Measurement: 17 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.31
Physical condition: Good
Material composition: Photo paper; mat board
Description: A c-print photograph by Richard E. Brooks depicting Mike Gonzalez, the 21st Chief, performing a dance dressed in his chief regalia, different from that worn by Leutwiler. A label containing information about the chief tradition and photo production notes is located on the obverse side. Mat displays fading along edges on both front and back indicating it was once mounted in a frame. Books' signature is written in the lower right of the mat, below the photograph.
Measurement: 23 x 24 cm photo mounted in a 33 x 46 cm mat
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.32
Physical condition: Good
Material composition: Oak wood, electrical tape, cotton
Description: An oak wood handle that appears to be reclaimed from a premanufactured item. One end contains a bundle of cotton wrapped in black electrical tape. Appears to have a slight taper down the handle from the head of the beater.
Measurement: 51 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.33
Physical condition: Good
Material composition: Cedar wood; calf skin; snake skin; steel nails
Description: A drum made of cedar wood held together with steel nails. Drum has snake skin wrapped around the center portion that appears to be flaking. Each head of the drum is made from stretched calfskin and bound with strips of calfskin to tighten the heads to the drum. Remnants of animal hair can be found still attached to calfskin. The drum heads differ slightly in size, creating a slight taper to the drum. The larger head contains a depiction of a bison skull. A yellowish brown circle covered partially by two half circles; one dark red, one white, with a straight white/gray line marking the flat edge of the half circles. A dark red zig-zag arrow continues perpendicular from the straight white/gray line.
Measurements: 34 x 34 x 31 cm.
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.36
Physical condition: Poor/Fair
Material composition: Horse hair; paper-wrapped metal wire; cotton twine
Description: The paper-wrapped metal wire is formed in a circle, with cotton twine wrapped around to make two triangles to hold the lock of horse hair in place. The horse hair is secured by a cotton twine wrap and hangs down about an inch from the circle.
Measurement: Wire frame 19.5 x 16.25 cm; Entire piece 19.5 x 44 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.37
Physical condition: Poor/Fair
Material composition: Horse hair; paper-wrapped metal wire; cotton twine
Description: The paper-wrapped metal wire is formed in a circle with cotton twine wrapped around to made two triangles to hold the lock of horse hair into place. The horse hair is secured by a cotton twine wrap. The cotton twine wrap around the horse hair is level with the metal circle.
Measurement: Wire frame 10 x 10.5 cm; Entire piece 10 x 31 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.38
Physical condition: Poor/Fair
Material composition: Horse hair; paper-wrapped metal wire; cotton twine
Description: The paper-wrapped metal wire is formed in a circle with cotton twine wrapped around to made two triangles to hold the lock of horse hair into place. The horse hair is secured by a cotton twine wrap. The cotton twine wrap around the horse hair is level with the metal circle.
Measurement: Wire frame 9.75 x 9.5 cm; Entire piece 9.75 x 40 cm
Accession number: 2024.26.20.262.39
Physical condition: Poor/Fair
Material composition: Horse hair; paper-wrapped metal wire; cotton twine
Description: The paper-wrapped metal wire is formed in a circle with cotton twine wrapped around to made two triangles to hold the lock of horse hair into place. The horse hair is secured by a cotton twine wrap. The cotton twine wrap around the horse hair is level with the metal circle.
Measurement: Wire frame 9.25 x 9.75 cm; Entire piece 9.25 x 40 cm
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